RadiantSkinClinic

Hi there,

I wanted to order some more products but I needed some clarification first.

Q. I’m currently finishing off my Neostrata Plus AHA 15% for the face and I’m looking to pick up a new AHA, so what is the difference between DCL AHA revitalizing lotion for the face 10% or 20% and the MD Forte Facial Lotion 15%? There seems to be a large price difference, is the pH level relatively the same, are they equally good manufacturers of AHA?

A. DCL AHA Revitalizing Lotion for Face 10% is a 10% glycolic acid based lotion whereas the former is a 20% glycolic acid lotion (twice the exfoliating power). If you feel your skin needs a “bump” up in exfoliation – then I would recommended going to the 20% strength not backward to the 10%. The difference between DCL and MD Forte is the way the glycolic acid in the products are buffered. DCL can cause redness and irritation on the skin and in some cases cannot be tolerated by more compromised skin types (such as sensitive skin or rosacea prone skin). They both contain the active ingredient “Glycolic Acid” but MD Forte is not as harsh on the skin so many customer’s like this product because it causes no skin reaction and they still get clarity and smoothness to the skin. MD Forte is also considered more “cosmetically elegant” meaning the products are formulated with base ingredients that, when applied, glide easily across the skin and absorb quickly and provide increased moisturization in the process.

Q. Secondly, is it important to use a cleanser with an AHA when using glycolic creams? A Neostrata rep told me that Neostrata cleansers, Cliniderm cleansers and Spectro Jel cleansers don’t strip the skin, so they’re ideal when using AHA products on the face. Is the MD Forte cleanser 12% too strong, if I’ve only been using the Neostrata 4% cleanser?

A. When choosing a cleanser to use with an AHA program, it is important to realize that the cleanser must not only remove dirt, makeup and oil but must also prepare the skin for the next step in the treatment program. I always recommend that you use the cleanser in the same line of exfoliating products you choose to use. Why? Because the cleanser has been formulated to work synergistically with those treatment products and adequately prepares the skin so the treatment products work as effectively as possible. Usually you will choose the cleanser in the line based on your skin type as most manufacturers offer more than one cleanser. The percentage of glycolic acid in the cleanser basically only prepares the skin, since a cleanser is washed off – the glycolic acid and any other active ingredients in the cleanser do not stay on the skin for long enough to actually exfoliate, but they do reduce the pH of the skin to the point where the treatment product in the line works most effectively.

Q. Thirdly, does it make a difference using a Vit. C serum verus a a Vit. C cream? When is the best time to use my Vit. C if I’m using a AHA in the morning and my retinol at night? Can I layer the serum underneath my AHA? ( I also use an SPF 60 by Ombrelle or La Roche Posay daily on top of my AHA)

A. You choose the Vitamin C based on your skin type or the skin care regimen you are using. Meaning, if you are using three or four products in the morning and you want to add another treatment product in that program, then you need to evaluate the base of the products you are currently using to determine which base you choose in the Vitamin C. Vitamin C should be used in the a.m. (as the product is designed to protect the skin from free radical damage which comes from UV exposure). Proper layering of products is always thinnest to thickest. So, in your case, say your using an AHA Cream in the morning (because your skin is on the normal/dry side) and you want to add a Vitamin C – you would choose a Vitamin C Serum. Why? Because if you chose the Vitamin C Cream and you are using an AHA Cream – both are thicker bases so the Vitamin C Cream base will not allow the AHA Cream base to penetrate the skin and do it’s job. Serums are almost always a safer bet when layering products. You would use the Vitamin C Serum (after cleansing) let that absorb into the skin, then apply your AHA Lotion or Cream over that, and then lastly, your sunblock. Continue to use your retinol at night after cleansing.

Q. I’ve been using a Vit. A acid (tretinoic acid?) from my dermatologist in a 0.025 or 0.05% nightly for a few years. Would the Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5% night cream, or the Retinol Complex, or the Night Complex Level I be a better alternative? Are the roughly the same thing? Also, can I apply the retinol sparingly around the eye area?

A. If you are already using a prescription strength retinol (tretinoin) from your physician you would get little benefit from changing to SkinCeuticals Retinol. They are not comparable. Prescription strength Retin-A is much more effective and always a better choice if you can tolerate it. Most people go to the alternative (non-prescription) strengths because they either do not want to get a rx for a retin-a from their physician or they simply cannot tolerate prescription strength retin-a. Whether or not you can tolerate your Retinol around the eye area remains to be seen. The only way to know is to try it once and see how the skin of the eye area tolerates it. I would recommend you either start with the lower strength retinol to see how you react to it or mix the retinol with a moisturizer to dilute the potency for less irritation. You may want to touch base with the dermatologist that prescribed the product to see what he/she recommends before trying it.

I hope this information has been helpful to making your product selections. Please feel free to contact me at any time if you have further questions – I am happy to share my knowledge with you and hopefully, the selections you make will pay off with smooth, beautiful skin (which is what we ultimately strive for). I have used just about every product line out there at one time or another and I am currently embarking on testing out the Obagi Skin System to see how this system differs (in results) to other lines I have used in the past. Up to this point, I have not felt the need to try this system (which is pretty aggressive) but as I get older I see changes in my own skin that warrant changes in my skin care routine. So, if your ever interested in feedback on this system, I will be able to offer my experience with this soon!

Radiant Skin Clinic always strives to bring you up-to-date information on products available through physicians and offer you knowledge and understanding of skin care in general. Please feel free to contact our estheticians ANY TIME with questions or concerns you may have. We promise to give you sound advice and recommendations - our goal is not to “sell you products” but to help you discover the best skin care for your needs.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, May 30th, 2007 at 9:13 pm and is filed under Skin Talk. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.