We found the perfect illustration of what this damage is and how it affects skin aging through a biochemist in California. We hope to clarify the importance of skin care to repair damage already incurred as well as prevent future damage.

WHAT IS OXIDATIVE STRESS?
Oxidative stress is an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), more commonly known as free radicals, and our skin’s natural ability to readily detoxify these reactive intermediates or easily repair the resulting damage. Skin is a major target of oxidative stress due to exposure from environmental stressors such as solar ultraviolet radiation (UVA & UVB), pollution, smoke, microorganisms and external stress.

Effects of Oxidative Stress on Skin Cells

WHAT IS PHOTOAGING?
Oxidative stress plays a pivotal role in photoaging. Sun exposure and other sources of UV radiation contribute significantly to photoaging which is characterized by the early appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, irregular pigmentation, loss of elasticity and skin dehydration.

HOW DO ANTIOXIDANTS PROTECT THE SKIN FROM PHOTOAGING?
Topical antioxidants counteract the effects of oxidative stress and have clinical anti-photoaging properties. A comprehensive and integrated topical antioxidant is considered to be crucial in protecting the skin from oxidative stress and consequently preventing the photoaging process.

WHAT ARE THE EFFECTS OF OXIDATIVE STRESS ON THE SKIN?

Increased or prolonged free radical action contributes to adverse effects on the skin, including inflammation, redness, wrinkling, hypersensitivity, hyperpigmentation, photoaging and other skin conditions.

Prevent Damage with PREVOX

Repair Damage with Retrisome

Dermaplaning is an effective method of exfoliation. Using a disposable blade we shave, or remove, the dead skin cells from the epidermis. Along with exfoliating, dermaplaning also helps remove the unwanted vellus hairs from the face. Usually, you can see a difference after the first treatment. While this is an aggressive treatment, dermaplaning does not break the capillaries on the face and, when done correctly, is very safe with no downtime.

Dermaplaning is perfect for anyone who has uneven skin texture and tone and is looking for a safe, painless way to smooth their skin and have baby soft skin.

Benefits of Dermaplaning include:

1.) helps to refinish top layers

2.) removes “peach fuzz” which can trap excess dirt and oil

3.) smoothes the skins surface

4.) enhances the effectiveness of other treatments

5.) helps with product penetration

Commonly Asked Questions about Dermaplaning:

If you are ‘dermaplaning” the skin on the face, won’t the hairs on the face grow back thicker?
No.  It is physiologically impossible for your vellus hairs to grow back thicker.  True, once the hair is cut, it has a blunt edge.  But this blunt edge does not mean that the hair structure itself has been physiologically altered.

There are two types of hair that grow on our bodies.  Vellus (tiny translucent blonde hair) and Terminal (thicker hair that grows under the arms, pubic area, eye brows, mustache and beard for men and legs)

Vellus hair when cut or removed will grow back the same.  The structure of the hair does not become damaged, therefore it is impossible to alter.  Terminal hair is physiologically coarse.  When Termianl hair is cut, it grows back the same way…coarse.

How often is this procedure performed?
Blading can be performed every 3 – 4 weeks.  Blading the skin actually removes about 2-3 weeks worth of dead skin cells.  We want the skin to complete it’s normal skin cycle of approximately 30 days.  I would not recommend treating the skin more often than that.

Can blading or derma planing be performed with a chemical peel?
Absolutely.  I recommend using our Non-Traumantic Chirally-Correct peels.  They are made without harsh chemicals that might induce a burn effect on the skin.  They are loaded with antioxidants and nutrients as well as chirally-correct acids, such as L-lactic, L-malic and L-tartaric.

Does the skin actually peel from Dermaplaning?
Sometimes the skin does peel after derma planing.  If the procedure is done at a 2 week interval, then the skin cycle has not been completed.  Thus, you are blading skin that does not really need to be peeled yet and peeling can occur.

Also, if using a chemical peel after, you may experience some superficial peeling.  But the idea is not to over-exfoliate the skin.  We just want to assist in the skin’s natural exfoliation process.

What skin types/conditions can be treated?
All skin types can benefit from dermaplaning or blading, however, I would not recommend this treatment for those suffering from active acne lesions. If the hair is removed, then the oils tend to stay below the surface where they are prone to mix with bacterial colonies, ultimately stimulating more acne.

The Only Anti-Aging Serum You Need

SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum tackles all of your aging concerns with just one product

If you’re concerned about aging, blame Father Time, the sun and your parents. While two out of the three are beyond our control, the combination of these factors is responsible for an overwhelming majority of skin issues that arise with age. While some may turn to medical treatments or surgery to repair the symptoms of aging, skin care is the only way to restore your skin to a more youthful state, and in turn improve its appearance for the long run.

SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum is an all-in-one anti-aging product that addresses all of the visible signs of aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, excess pigment and uneven tone and texture. Its blend of human growth factors, peptides, antioxidants and other anti-aging ingredients has been proven to deliver visible results within 30 days of use, with optimal results seen after 90 days.

To make the most of the exceptional ingredients found in SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum, the packaging features a unique dual-chamber pump that keeps the two products within separated until they are ready to be applied. This ensures maximum potency and consequently, maximum results.

The first chamber contains SkinMedica’s patented growth factor serum, TNS Recovery Complex. Growth factors are messenger molecules occur naturally in our skin, yet their number and performance begin to decline with age. By supplementing the skin with growth factors, cells are prompted to perform more efficiently again, in turn lending a younger-looking appearance to the skin.

The second chamber houses a blend of powerful antioxidants, peptides and other anti-aging ingredients that protect and further improve the appearance of the skin. The seven antioxidants were selected for their superior ability to protect skin cells from free radical damage, while the peptides work with the growth factors to repair the skin’s supportive matrix. The serum also contains alpha-arbutin to brighten and lighten the skin along with other anti-aging ingredients like hyaluronic filling spheres that instantly plump up the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Suitable for all skin types, SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum offers prevention and correction for the full spectrum of aging concerns. When the two serums are combined, they work synergistically to increase collagen production and regenerate your skin, improving its look and feel. With SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum, you’ll notice improvement in lines and wrinkles, lightening of dark spots, renewed skin elasticity and more even tone and texture—all from just one product.

A Clear, Radiant Complexion at Any Age

SkinMedica’s anti-acne arsenal relies on key ingredients that have been proven to banish breakouts

Hormonal fluctuations, stress, and genetics are among the main culprits behind breakouts. The key to treating and preventing blemishes is consistent use of anti-acne active ingredients that are strong enough to stop the breakout cycle, yet gentle enough to not cause additional redness and irritation. The SkinMedica skin-care range features 4 such products that work synergistically to stop acne at the source.

The first step in maintaining clear, blemish-free skin is exfoliation. By keeping the skin’s surface free of dead skin-cell buildup, clogged pores—a main cause of acne—are kept to a minimum. But manual exfoliation can exacerbate the redness and inflammation associated with acne, which is why chemical exfoliation is usually preferred by dermatologists.

There wouldn’t be acne without P. acnes bacteria, and limiting its proliferation is a crucial step in preventing blemishes. Benzoyl peroxide is a preferred anti-acne ingredient due to its ability to kill bacteria on the skin surface and reduce inflammation as it prevents clogged pores.

SkinMedica’s Acne Treatment Lotion is a benzoyl peroxide-based therapy that reduces P. acnes on the skin as it absorbs excess sebum, which is yet another contributor to acne. The Acne Treatment Lotion is formulated with an advanced microparticle delivery system that delivers maximum skin clearing with minimal irritation. This unique acne treatment also contains willow bark extract (a natural source of salicylic acid), plus soothing witch hazel and sage leaf extracts.

The SkinMedica Acne Treatment Lotion is available a la carte, or as part of the SkinMedica Acne System. This three-step anti-acne regimen also includes the Purifying Foaming Wash and the Purifying Toner. These two additional products contain 2% salicylic acid to remove excess oil and impurities from the skin, and in turn treat and prevent blemishes.

When using alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, it’s imperative to use daily sun protection. SkinMedica’s Environmental Defense Sunscreen SPF 30+ is safe for acne-prone skin.

SkinMedica skin-care products are available exclusively at doctors’ offices and medically-supervised spas.

Human Growth Factors and Vitamin C – A Powerful Duo for Younger Skin

SkinMedica Offers Age-Defying Skin Care with TNS Recovery Complex® and Vitamin C+E Complex

As spring gives way to summer sunshine, increased UV exposure as well as humidity and perspiration can wreak havoc on the skin, exposing signs of aging that were quietly hibernating during the winter and early spring months.

Two key ingredients responsible for promoting youthful, rejuvenated skin year-round are human growth factors and vitamin C.

Human growth factors are proteins found naturally in the skin that act as messengers to stimulate the creation of new collagen. Unlike young skin that renews itself every 28 days, as we get older, our skin’s ability to produce natural growth factors needed to stimulate fibroblasts to increase collagen production are limited due to damage by intrinsic or extrinsic aging. Human growth factors and potent antioxidants, such as vitamin C, can help replenish skin cells, build collagen and protect delicate skin from free radical damage.

Revitalize lackluster skin with SkinMedica’s skin care perfect pair: TNS Recovery Complex and Vitamin C&E Complex.

SkinMedica’s TNS Recovery Complex® offers an unparalleled, patented treatment gel with the highest concentration of growth factors (TNS®) on the market. The potent solution is clinically proven to effectively increase collagen production, enhance skin tone and texture as well as improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. TNS Recovery Complex helps strengthen the skin’s natural ability to regenerate itself to help improve the appearance of age spots in addition to making skin firmer and resilient.

Vitamin C, one of the most effective ingredients in skin rejuvenation, is clinically demonstrated to help build collagen and fight free radicals released in the skin through UV exposure.

SkinMedica’s Vitamin C&E Complex, a silky, fragrance-free formula, packs a skin-defending punch to fight free radical damage, promote cell renewal and increase collagen production. Follow TNS Recovery Complex with an application of Vitamin C&E Complex containing 15 percent stabilized vitamin C and E to help improve the appearance of skin tone, texture and firmness; plus, it delivers essential C and E vitamins to the skin all day.

TNS Recovery Complex and Vitamin C&E Complex should be used in conjunction with daily sun protection for best results. A sunscreen is essential for fighting free radical oxidation that can penetrate the skin and cause damage at the cellular level. Use a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, such as SkinMedica’s Environmental Defense Sunscreen™ SPF 30+, a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with added biological antioxidant protection to fight against environmental damage.

Revive Tired Eyes with SkinMedica’s Proven Anti-Aging Serums

SkinMedica has the solution for aging eyes that you’ll fall in love with this February.

The delicate tissue around the eyes is the first to show signs of aging over time. SkinMedica’s exclusive anti-aging eye serums – TNS Illuminating Eye Cream®, TNS Night Eye Repair™ and Uplifting Eye Serum - will renew, refresh and repair maturing eyes.

The elegant SkinMedica solutions are formulated to enhance skin’s appearance and reduce visible signs of aging – virtually lifting the effects of time when added to any daily skin care routine.

TNS Illuminating Eye Cream renews aging eyes and brightens skin’s texture. Ideal for all skin types, TNS Illuminating Eye Cream contains the active ingredient NouriCel-MD®, a mixture of growth factors, soluble collagen and antioxidants, that diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and will help to improve the appearance of puffiness and discoloration. Apply once or twice daily to the skin adjacent to and beneath the eye after cleansing and prior to moisturizing to allow the cream’s optical brighteners to work their magic!

For best results, follow the TNS Illuminating Eye Cream with SkinMedica’s Uplifting Eye Serum. Using a restorative blend of plant extracts and antioxidants, the gentle, oil-free Uplifting Eye Serum refreshes eyes by reducing the appearance of puffiness and soothing fine lines to reveal younger, more radiant eyes. Apply one to two drops twice daily to the skin underneath and around the eye, avoiding the upper eye lid. The Uplifting Eye Serum can be used directly following TNS Illuminating Eye Cream or TNS Night Eye Repair.

TNS Night Eye Repair is a luxurious anti-aging cream that hydrates for timeless eyes. The revolutionary solution contains NouriCel-MD®, peptides, high concentrations of vitamins A, C and E and hyaluronic acid, which help to increase the firmness and elasticity of the delicate skin around the eyes. TNS Night Eye Repair also improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark circles – all while you sleep! Apply a thin layer every night to skin adjacent to and beneath the eye. For best results, use TNS Night Eye Repair with the Uplifting Eye Serum.

Be sure to also apply sunscreen daily and get plenty of sleep to help prevent future signs of aging.

SkinMedica’s “Essential Anti-Aging System” Packs Powerful Skin Rejuvenating Punch

As skin ages, elasticity decreases, fine lines and age spots start to appear and overall skin tone fades, losing its youthful glow.

SkinMedica’s “Essential Anti-Aging System” can help.

With a one-two punch against genetic, hormonal and environmental factors that wreak havoc on the skin over time, SkinMedica’s proven solution will help fight the signs of time. Its clinically proven Essential Anti-Aging System contains restorative ingredients that work below the skin’s surface to regenerate the health of the skin, combining the anti-aging TNS Essential Serum™ with the antioxidant-rich Retinol Complex.

TNS Essential Serum. An unparalleled anti-aging solution, the dual-chambered TNS Essential Serum is the first to combine the renowned growth factor serum TNS Recovery Complex®, containing the key ingredient NouriCel-MD® that rejuvenates sun damaged and aging skin, in one chamber, and the APS Corrective Complex™, a powerful mixture of antioxidants, peptides and other anti-aging ingredients, in the other chamber. Together these potent products work as one to renew and transform the skin for a more youthful appearance.

In a recent clinical study, 37 women aged 32-55 with mild-to-severe wrinkling used TNS Essential Serum twice a day for three months. Of the 37 women, 97 percent saw improvements in the elasticity of their skin and 92 percent rated their skin as looking healthier and younger.

Retinol Complex. Developed for all skin types, SkinMedica’s Retinol Complex antioxidant skin care solution infuses the skin with three different Vitamin A derivatives to penetrate damaged and aging skin in a sustained-release delivery system.

TNS Essential Serum

Retinol Complex

• Not sure which products are right for your skin needs? Call our toll free telephone number and speak with a ParaMedical Esthetician; who would be happy to discuss your skin concerns and direct you toward products that best fit your needs and budget! Call (866) 467-0306

In-Office Peels:

Professional strength peels feature salicylic acid, a clinically proven and highly effective superficial peeling agent for acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid peel pads for the face are applied to the cleansed, prepared skin for one to five minutes. Neutralization is characterized by the formation of the white mask. Salicylic Acid peel pads are available for application on the chest and back as well, if necessary.

At Home Maintenance:

Patients can maintain the results of their in-office treatments with a full line of at-home products designed to cleanse, tone and treat acne-prone skin as part of an easy-to-follow system.

Step 1: Cleanse with a cleanser that contains glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid or any combination thereof to exfoliate oily skin. An excellent cleansing tool that is highly recommend for use with your cleanser of choice is the Clarisonic Skin Brush. This brush sonically removes dirt, makeup and oil while allowing better penetration of your cleansers active ingredients.

We recommend one of the following:

DCL Active Cleanser

gloTherapeutics gloRefine Cleanser

Glycolix Gly / Sal 5-2 Cleanser

Glycolix Gly / Sal 10-2 Cleanser

iS Clinical Cleansing Complex

Step 2: Use a toner or astringent that contains glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid or any combination thereof to remove any oil left behind from cleansing, shrink pores and prepare the skin for application of a leave-on treatment product.

We recommend one of the following:

SkinMedica Rejuvenative Toner

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Toner Astringent Lotion

Glytone Acne Cleansing Toner

gloTherapeutics gloRefine Tonic

Step 3: Treat the skin with products that are oil-free and contain the following ingredients or a cocktail of ingredients (based on recommendations by a licensed skin care therapist or dermatologist):

• 5% or 10% Benzoyl Peroxide
• Sulfur
• Salicylic Acid 1-3%
• Resorcinol

We recommend one of the following:

Glytone Flesh Tinted Acne Treatment Lotion

Pevonia Clarifyl Purifying Masque for Problematic Skin

PCA Skin phaze 32 Blemish Control Bar

Joesoef  Skin Care Sulfur and Salicylic Acid Soap

Glytone 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Treatment Gel

Gluten-Free, Animal Friendly

Ecco Bella is a health and wellness beauty brand that has revolutionized holistic, organic, cruelty-free products. Holistic doctor approved, we offer a unique expertise in beauty, nutrition and wellness. We create natural beauty products that help people achieve their full potential in both wellness and beauty.

Ecco Bella Doctor Approved Skin Care, Water-free Herbal Body Lotions, Natural Hair Care, Flower Color Mineral Make up with Flower waxes, Natural Fragrance and Natural Air Fresheners are for the most sensitive people. Ecco Bella natural skin care products are preservative-free, for sensitive skin, water-free and 70% organic. They save money as less products do more for you!

Products are both anti-aging and anti-blemish combined. Based in organic aloe vera in luxurious formulas they help skin to be smoother, healthier and happier. Guaranteed.

What makes Ecco Bella products unique compared to other skin care products and mineral makeup lines out there?

• ALL products are preservative-free and free of parabens
• Water Free
• 70% Organic
• Vegan and Gluten-Free
• No Animal Testing
• No Animal By-Products used
• No Synthetic Oils
• Talc Free
• No Dyes

Providing Color Nature Gives Us...

– Clarisonic introduces the Opal Sonic Infusion System, which combines sonic micro-massage with a proprietary Anti-Aging Serum for immediately noticeable and long-lasting reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

You will be thrilled with the instantly noticeable reduction in the fine lines and wrinkles around your eyes. Opal is going to change the way women combat aging. Our clients love the way it feels and the results are very impressive.

Opal’s soothing, gentle vibrations infuse Anti-Aging Serums and other treatment products into the epidermis where they can begin to work immediately.

The Clarisonic infuser combines a soft applicator tip, precision tuned sonic frequency, and a proprietary gentle kneading motion to maximize transfer of serum into the epidermis.

Why Clarisonic infusion?

• Skin hydration and serum absorption are important for skin health

• sonic infusion is more effective than fingertip application

• sonic micro-massage GLIDES ACROSS SKIN AND gently infuses serum into

epidermis

• immediately noticeable results

• results in firmer, brighter, more hydrated skin

Clarisonic Opal Sonic Infusion

Exceptional New Product on the Market for Facial Redness, Accutane Redness, and post-procedure, while treating skin aging and wrinkles!

Pyratine-6 is a new product that is a derivative of Kinetin. According to their results, Pyratine 6 (or PRK 124) shows higher scores, compared to Kinetin in the areas of fine wrinkles, skin roughness and and overall skin aging. Additional tests of Pyratine 6 (although not stated, I assume against placebo, but this is not a given) showed increases in skin moisture, reductions in skin redness, and after 12 weeks, reductions in acne lesions.

Seven Years Ago…the latest and greatest on the market for reversing the signs of aging was Kinerase, with its ‘kinetin enriched’ products.

Today – products have become ‘smart’ and new innovations in delivery systems have made the beauty industry EXPLODE…

At RadiantSkinClinic.com, we are a dermatology-based clinic with hundreds of products at our fingertips, all promising a ‘fountain-of-youth’ – so how do you decide what to use? Simple…trial and error.

We keep an eye on what the pharmaceutical companies are working on, whose launching new products and, most importantly, what they deliver! We are VERY excited to send you information on Lumeris Pyratine-6. We have been waiting impatiently for this product to come to market.

What is offers is a new approach to reduce redness, improve skin texture, calm down rosacea-prone skin…and heres the cool part – also diminishes wrinkles at the same time. All in one product. Too good to be true? So far, our patients are lovin’ it!

It calms sensitive, compromised skin. It reduces redness in association with acne and Our Accutane users have found it soothes their red, dry skin. Improves skin texture by 45% in two weeks.

Our Aestheticians are asked all the time if there is a product that is good for sensitive skin, acne prone skin and helps with wrinkles at the same time? Finally, we have Pyratine-6 to recommend for both. It’s pricey but worth every penny!

Call our Clinic with any questions you may have about Pyratine-6. It comes in a lotion and cream version (depending on your skin type). We welcome your comments -and- feedback is always appreciated.

PyratineXR Creme and Lotion have also made their debut into the skincare world for the treatment of rosacea-prone skin. PyratineXR helps to alleviate the symptoms associated with rosacea such as redness, flushing, broken capillaries, skin ruddiness and uneven texture.

As professionals, we are constantly striving to improve the quality and outcome of our procedures. One of the simplest ways to do so is to focus on effective skin preparation. Now our pretreatment protocols nearly always include the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush. We have found that sonic cleansing technology provides a tremendous advantage over surface cleansing. After cleansing with the Clarisonic, the skin is noticeably more receptive to professional procedures and treatments, as as as to the patient’s home care regimen.

The central benefit of sonic pretreatment cleansing is evidence of increased absorption. One of our nurses was the first to observe that topical cosmeceutical products appeared to deliver increased benefit when preceded by use of the Clarisonic.

Benefits:

• 6 times more makeup removal
• Leaves skin feeling and looking younger and smoother
• Cleanses so well that products absorb better
• Gentle enough for twice daily use
• Helps reduce oily areas, dry skin patches and blemishes
• Helps reduce the appearance of visible pores
• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

Testimonial from Users:

“Want proof that it cleans? I wash off my makeup first with (“name of brand”) soap, and the washcloth is dirty. Then I use Clarisonic and the head is gray—clearly the soap and scrub are not getting all the dirt, but Clarisonic is.” —Stephanie M., Seattle, WA

Steven F. told us, “I have adult acne, large pores and fine lines. I have been using my Clarisonic for three weeks and my skin looks great. What is amazing is that something so gentle to your skin can actually make dramatic improvements.”

“It deep cleans my pores, reduces the appearance of fine lines and makes my skin baby-soft. It has my gray-looking skin appearing healthier and smooth. Shaving is no longer drudgery; I can get a close shave.” – Steven F.

Tania B. in Redmond, WA, “I was curious to try the Clarisonic as I had read such excellent reviews about it. I was ‘in love’ straightaway! I have also noticed that I don’t need as much foundation coverage as I did before. My skin feels noticeably softer, smoother and appears more toned.”

Wei L. in New York, “I just bought the Clarisonic skin cleaning brush and have been using it for about 2 weeks. I’m thrilled with the device and already recommended it to all my friends. I’m also a freelance make-up artist and will be recommending this to my clients as well.”

“In the 20+ years I’ve been in the cosmetic industry, there is nothing that I have ever come across that I have been so astounded by than my Clarisonic brush.” — Martin K.

“My Clarisonic, what can I say? To be without it would be like being without a toothbrush! It is definitely a must have for anyone with skin, so, that means, everyone must have one! I mean, who wouldn’t want clearer, firmer, younger, healthier, radiant looking skin? It’s really a no-brainer.” — Martin K.

Anita R. in Tigard, OR told us, “I am now 48 and I can honestly say that my skin looks better than it did when I was in my early twenties. And it’s all because of Clarisonic!”

“Now I can see how much better my anti-aging skin care is working. I get compliments every day on my skin, and I seldom wear foundation now. I will never go without Clarisonic. It’s a vital part of my every day skin care routine.” — Anita R., Tigard, OR

“I notice that my moisturizing products work better, using less.…I really rave to everyone about how the Clarisonic works to keep my throat and neck looking smoother and ’taut-er’. I use mineral makeup and find the Clarisonic really gets the residue out of my skin so much better than some abrasive cleansers I’ve tried. All in all, a great product that does what it says it will do and then some. I wish I had had this 30 years ago!” — Carol V.

“By enhancing cell repair, the aging
process is slowed down and damage to
the skin is reduced.”

The Pro-Niacin molecule is the backbone of the NIA 24 skincare
product line manufactured by Niadyne, Inc. (Research
Triangle Park, N.C. and Tucson, Ariz.), and distributed exclusively
through Mentor Corporation (Santa Barbara, Calif.).

“I truly believe that the Pro-Niacin molecule is one of the best
breakthroughs we have seen in anti-aging skincare since retinoic
acid,” said Julie Salmon, M.D., a dermatologist and partner at
Southwest Skin Specialists in Phoenix and Scottsdale, Ariz. “This
molecule is the most active form of niacin. Niacin has fantastic
effects on the skin. It is really the energy vitamin. In this active
form, niacin fuels cell repair. Although our body has a natural
repair system in place, it is not always at its optimum. Niacin actually
helps to energize this cell repair system at the DNA level.”
Dr. Salmon noted that many competing skincare products focus
on collagen or surface changes in the skin. “But repairing DNA
is a direct key to potentially reducing the risk of skin cancer and
slowing the aging process.”

All four NIA 24 skincare products: a Gentle Cleansing Cream,
a Physical Cleansing Scrub, a Skin Strengthening Complex
repair cream and a Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral
Sunscreen SPF 30, contain the Pro-Niacin molecule.
Dr. Salmon strongly recommends the repair cream. “It is non-irritating
and very cosmetically elegant. It also provides outstanding
hydration by reducing transepidermal water loss.” Patients apply
the cream at night or twice a day. Another option is for patients
to use the NIA 24 sunscreen during the day and the repair cream
at night.

According to Dr. Salmon, the cleansing scrub provides “a nice
amount of gentle exfoliation with jojoba beads, which houses the
active ingredient. The beads provide gentle physical exfoliation,
so it is a great product to use in the shower, for instance.” People
can use the cleansing scrub on the face, neck, chest and even
hands and arms, two to three times a week.

For daily usage, the SPF 30 mineral sunscreen “is excellent.
For daily facial sunscreens, once the SPF is above 30, you tend
to compromise the cosmetic elegance, which decreases patient
compliance,” Dr. Salmon noted. Mineral sunscreens are less irritating
than chemical sunscreens and offer broad-spectrum protection.
The mineral sunscreen can also act as adjunct protective
therapy after a light chemical peel or a laser procedure for
optimum full broad-spectrum ultraviolet A and B coverage.
“Mineral sunscreens reduce the potential for irritation,” Dr.
Salmon pointed out.

Typically, within the first month of using a combination of the
NIA 24 skincare products, “patients will notice that their skin is
much smoother,” Dr. Salmon observed. “It is usually the textural
changes that people will notice first. Skin is also better hydrated.”
At about three months, “skin tone has improved considerably. In
addition, the general redness of the skin tends to be diminished
and much more even in its pigmentation. Brown pigment often
becomes softened.”

Dr. Salmon recommends that patients begin a skincare regimen
with the NIA 24 line because it is extremely non-irritating and
enhances hydration. “The skin barrier also becomes stronger and
patients notice immediate results,” she said. Later, patients can
comfortably start using a retinoid because “their skin has been
prepared to receive more irritating agents.”

Tess Mauricio, M.D., a dermatologist and owner of Scripps
Ranch Dermatology and Cosmetic Center in San Diego, Calif.,
has been dispensing the niacin-based product line for about five years. “I think there is very good science behind it, so it is not your
ordinary cosmeceutical,” she noted. “Patients are able to tolerate
the products well and they are efficacious. Patients are very, very
happy with the results. I recall only two people over the past five
years who were unable to tolerate the products because of slight
irritation. Every other person has told me they love the products.”
Besides being easy to apply, the NIA 24 product line acts as
an anti-inflammatory agent, “so it is great for patients with chronic
sun damage or those who have very sensitive skin from
rosacea, for example,” Dr. Mauricio said.
Furthermore, the Pro-Niacin molecule “has good science to show that it prevents the
transfer of pigment to the top layer of the skin, so it sort of acts as
a lightening agent, but without being a hydroquinone product.”

Hence, the NIA 24 line is “great for maintenance, especially for
patients who undergo laser treatments. There is also a decrease in
the recurrence of brown spots, broken capillaries and rosacea.”
Patients may also reap the medical benefit of potentially reducing
sun damage.

Dr. Mauricio encourages most of her patients to invest in all four
NIA 24 products if they are financially able. “I love every single
one of these products.” The complete package costs the patient a
little more than $200 for a two to three month supply. “This is not
very expensive compared to other physician-dispensed products,”
Dr. Mauricio noted.

The Physical Cleansing Scrub should be used two to three times
a week to exfoliate skin, while the Gentle Cleansing Cream should
be used to cleanse on days when the Physical Cleansing Scrub is
not used. The Skin Strengthening Complex repair cream should be
applied twice a day, and the Sun Damage Prevention 100%
Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 in the morning, every day.
“Given that the Pro-Niacin molecule can reverse some sun damage
is a big plus for a lot of my patients here in San Diego
because many have been sun worshippers for years,” Dr.
Mauricio said.

In a post-Fraxel laser study, “we found that every single patient
could tolerate treatment when NIA 24 was applied afterwards,”
Dr. Mauricio conveyed. “NIA 24 products also accelerated healing
and minimized redness.” Healing time was reduced from
around five days to three days.
According to Dr. Salmon, “The Pro-Niacin molecule addresses
top to bottom care for the skin. In the epidermis, water loss is
reduced. The molecule also helps thicken the epidermis. And in
the dermis, the molecule helps the health of the collagen by
reducing some of the glycation and hardening of the collagen,
which occurs with age and contributes to wrinkles. Nearly all my
patients love the NIA 24 products. Skin looks better because it is
healthier.”

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I wanted to order some more products but I needed some clarification first.

Q. I’m currently finishing off my Neostrata Plus AHA 15% for the face and I’m looking to pick up a new AHA, so what is the difference between DCL AHA revitalizing lotion for the face 10% or 20% and the MD Forte Facial Lotion 15%? There seems to be a large price difference, is the pH level relatively the same, are they equally good manufacturers of AHA?

A. DCL AHA Revitalizing Lotion for Face 10% is a 10% glycolic acid based lotion whereas the former is a 20% glycolic acid lotion (twice the exfoliating power). If you feel your skin needs a “bump” up in exfoliation – then I would recommended going to the 20% strength not backward to the 10%. The difference between DCL and MD Forte is the way the glycolic acid in the products are buffered. DCL can cause redness and irritation on the skin and in some cases cannot be tolerated by more compromised skin types (such as sensitive skin or rosacea prone skin). They both contain the active ingredient “Glycolic Acid” but MD Forte is not as harsh on the skin so many customer’s like this product because it causes no skin reaction and they still get clarity and smoothness to the skin. MD Forte is also considered more “cosmetically elegant” meaning the products are formulated with base ingredients that, when applied, glide easily across the skin and absorb quickly and provide increased moisturization in the process.

Q. Secondly, is it important to use a cleanser with an AHA when using glycolic creams? A Neostrata rep told me that Neostrata cleansers, Cliniderm cleansers and Spectro Jel cleansers don’t strip the skin, so they’re ideal when using AHA products on the face. Is the MD Forte cleanser 12% too strong, if I’ve only been using the Neostrata 4% cleanser?

A. When choosing a cleanser to use with an AHA program, it is important to realize that the cleanser must not only remove dirt, makeup and oil but must also prepare the skin for the next step in the treatment program. I always recommend that you use the cleanser in the same line of exfoliating products you choose to use. Why? Because the cleanser has been formulated to work synergistically with those treatment products and adequately prepares the skin so the treatment products work as effectively as possible. Usually you will choose the cleanser in the line based on your skin type as most manufacturers offer more than one cleanser. The percentage of glycolic acid in the cleanser basically only prepares the skin, since a cleanser is washed off – the glycolic acid and any other active ingredients in the cleanser do not stay on the skin for long enough to actually exfoliate, but they do reduce the pH of the skin to the point where the treatment product in the line works most effectively.

Q. Thirdly, does it make a difference using a Vit. C serum verus a a Vit. C cream? When is the best time to use my Vit. C if I’m using a AHA in the morning and my retinol at night? Can I layer the serum underneath my AHA? ( I also use an SPF 60 by Ombrelle or La Roche Posay daily on top of my AHA)

A. You choose the Vitamin C based on your skin type or the skin care regimen you are using. Meaning, if you are using three or four products in the morning and you want to add another treatment product in that program, then you need to evaluate the base of the products you are currently using to determine which base you choose in the Vitamin C. Vitamin C should be used in the a.m. (as the product is designed to protect the skin from free radical damage which comes from UV exposure). Proper layering of products is always thinnest to thickest. So, in your case, say your using an AHA Cream in the morning (because your skin is on the normal/dry side) and you want to add a Vitamin C – you would choose a Vitamin C Serum. Why? Because if you chose the Vitamin C Cream and you are using an AHA Cream – both are thicker bases so the Vitamin C Cream base will not allow the AHA Cream base to penetrate the skin and do it’s job. Serums are almost always a safer bet when layering products. You would use the Vitamin C Serum (after cleansing) let that absorb into the skin, then apply your AHA Lotion or Cream over that, and then lastly, your sunblock. Continue to use your retinol at night after cleansing.

Q. I’ve been using a Vit. A acid (tretinoic acid?) from my dermatologist in a 0.025 or 0.05% nightly for a few years. Would the Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5% night cream, or the Retinol Complex, or the Night Complex Level I be a better alternative? Are the roughly the same thing? Also, can I apply the retinol sparingly around the eye area?

A. If you are already using a prescription strength retinol (tretinoin) from your physician you would get little benefit from changing to SkinCeuticals Retinol. They are not comparable. Prescription strength Retin-A is much more effective and always a better choice if you can tolerate it. Most people go to the alternative (non-prescription) strengths because they either do not want to get a rx for a retin-a from their physician or they simply cannot tolerate prescription strength retin-a. Whether or not you can tolerate your Retinol around the eye area remains to be seen. The only way to know is to try it once and see how the skin of the eye area tolerates it. I would recommend you either start with the lower strength retinol to see how you react to it or mix the retinol with a moisturizer to dilute the potency for less irritation. You may want to touch base with the dermatologist that prescribed the product to see what he/she recommends before trying it.

I hope this information has been helpful to making your product selections. Please feel free to contact me at any time if you have further questions – I am happy to share my knowledge with you and hopefully, the selections you make will pay off with smooth, beautiful skin (which is what we ultimately strive for). I have used just about every product line out there at one time or another and I am currently embarking on testing out the Obagi Skin System to see how this system differs (in results) to other lines I have used in the past. Up to this point, I have not felt the need to try this system (which is pretty aggressive) but as I get older I see changes in my own skin that warrant changes in my skin care routine. So, if your ever interested in feedback on this system, I will be able to offer my experience with this soon!

Radiant Skin Clinic always strives to bring you up-to-date information on products available through physicians and offer you knowledge and understanding of skin care in general. Please feel free to contact our estheticians ANY TIME with questions or concerns you may have. We promise to give you sound advice and recommendations – our goal is not to “sell you products” but to help you discover the best skin care for your needs.